Istanbul

Istanbul is one of those cities which you have to visit to really experience the rich culture, vibrant old town feel, astonishing architecture, cuisine, history and fascinating metropolis. The city is located on two continents with one side reaching out to Asia and the other to Europe. The Bosphorus runs in between and you should take the 1 1/2 hour Bosphorus Cruise from Eminonu to visit the old castle and an old fishing village (Anadolukavagi).

We stayed in the Old City which was a good place to be as the shops don't close everyday until at least 11pm...plenty of markets, doner kebab shops, souvenir shops, restaurants and sites to explore around the old city. We visited popular tourist sites in the old city including the Sultanahmet (Blue Mosque) which was the former heart of the Ottoman Empire. Opposite the Blue Mosque is an earthy red colour musuem called Hagia Sophia Musuem which was a former mosque. We also visited the Topkapi Palace which had many displays of the Ottoman period including valuable pieces of gold artifacts and tapestries. All these places are walking distance from each other but bear in mind you will pass by numerous kebab shops, ice cream sellers, turkish restaurants, dessert houses... which will take up time ;) (if not fill your stomach up).

If you want to buy souvenirs including turkish lamps, plates, bowls or spices, then there are two must go to places - Grand Bazaar and Spice Bazaar which are not too far from on another. Grand Bazaar is huge and contains everything you can imagine including turkish tapestries, ornaments, souvenirs, jewellery, wedding outfits, bags, shoes, clothes, etc... you can buy plenty of cheap 'fakes' such as Lascoste, Polo Ralph from market stalls outside the Bazaar...I was amazed at the quality of some of these fakes but didn't get any knowing I see enough of them in China anyways.

 

The Spice Bazaar isn't very big but they sell spices (of course), as well as Baklava, Turkish Nougat, teas, etc. The Bazaar is right near the port on Golden Horn (Halic) where you can catch day tour cruises out to the Bosphorus.


One evening we visited the Basilica Cistern which is an amazing underground palace that opens until 11pm. This is near the Topaki Palace (well at the bottom entrance of it) and it is definitely worth visiting.

Taking a couple hours one afternoon/evening, we went on the IDO Full Bosphorus Cruise cruising past a number of landmarks including the Galata Tower, Dolmabahce Palace, Ortakoy Mosque, The Bosphorus Bridge, Beylerbeyi Palace, Goksu Pavilion, Rumelikavagi and Anadolukavagi. This is where Kat tried her Sardine Sandwich.


We did find time to visit the Asian side of Istanbul around Beyoglu which is basically the only place away from the old city that you can find western food and not just kebabs, meat, turkish desserts. You can take the tram all the way from the old city to Beyoglu and then you need to catch a Funicular up to the top of the main high street called Istiklal Caddessi. You buy a token for the tram from one of the shops nearby each tram stop. It is the same cost no matter how far you are travelling. Of course my review wouldn't be a review if I didn't comment on the tram system...its efficient and clean but and I mean BUT it is very crowded and there are alot of really bad smells from people on the tram (get a seat if you can... if won't take the smell away but at you are seated and not swaying towards someone's armpit!).


Beyoglu is close to the Galata Tower and the high street has a very old tram that runs occasionally up the high street which is closed to cars (except for the odd Police cars that plough through the crowds). This is the place to come to if you want to do some brand shopping (not fakes) and have some western food.


Istanbul is a fantastic place to visit and you need to spend a couple of days at least to enjoy what it has to offer. There's so much food but its not just doner kebabs... we did eat alot including gozleme (hand make pancakes with mince meat & mushrooms), baked peppers and eggplants, Baklava, Chocolate Nougat, plenty of Rice Pudding (Firin Sutlac), Krem Karamel, Tavul Gogsulu Kazandibi and lotsa fresh orange juice. A common drink was Ayran which is basically water & yoghurt. All the restaurants vary in terms of price and surcharges... some charge you for the bread & water that is provided, some didn't... we particularly liked one outside the Grand Bazaar called SAR Restaurant (near the Beyazit Mosque).


We didn't get to see everything but we did manage to spend enough time to soak in the atmosphere and cultures. There are many locals who try to persuade you to buy things but its part of the experience and we definitely recommend it.

Until our next trip (French Riviera!)


Kat & Will.